Friday, 26 October 2012

Brush Development - Photoshop

 Producing CD Covers with Brushes
I firstly changed the dimentions of the new photoshop work by changing the height and width to 120mm X 120mm. The resolution was also changed to 300dpi (dot per inch) and the RGB was changed to 16 bit.

Th first version of the front cover I produced is very simplistic and only took a few minutes to make. Firstly, I used the 'Gradient Tool' to insert a background that was interesting rather than a flood fill using the 'Paint Bucket Tool'. I made sure the colours of the gradient were white and light blue by selecting the colours that I wanted. I dragged the gradient line from the top, left corner to the bottom, right corner of the page and this created a fading in affect. I then dowloaded a preformatic brush via brusheezy.com by dowloading the file, extracting the file and then loading it on photoshop. I loaded the font onto photoshop by accessing the drop down menu in the top, left hand corner and clicking 'Load Brushes...' The silhouette figures are the font brushes that I loaded and I changed the size of them via the square brackets on the keyboard. I chose the colour white for these silhouettes as I thought it linked with the gradiented background and cotnrasted with the blue. Finally, I inserted the text and changed the colour to green.
For the second version I downloaded several fonts from the same website and loaded them onto photoshop in the same way. I then pressed F5 on the keyboard to open 'Brush Presets.' To create the background of the CD cover I altered various brush settings including the: brush tip shape, shape dynamics, dual brush and texture. when changing the brush tip shape, I altered the angle so taht I could use the brush vertically as well as horrizontally.The evidence of this is the two purple paint marks on the bottom left of the CV cover image. I then chose various colours that the different brush marks could be and used the brush (b on the keyboard) to situate where I wanted the different brush marks. I also increased the 'spacing' option when altering the brush tip shape. I changed the opacity of the brushes to create the fainter paint marks around the light blue paint splats. The silhouette, pencil and the music notes were increased or decreased in size and positioned accurately. The text was then incorporated and edited by changing the layer styles. Bevel and emboss and different shadows were used to create the white outline to the font.
To develop skills further, I could have incorporated an image off of the internet and made the CD cover more professional.I could have also included more preloaded brushes and made the CD covers more interesting.












Friday, 19 October 2012

Skill Development - Shutter Speed Shots

Skill Development - Shutter Speed

A shutter within a camera lets light in. Its exposure time determines and controls the length of time that the light travels through the lens aperture to the film. The film is coated with silver nitrate to increase light sensitivity. Shutter speeds control the amount of movement and sharpness in an image as well as allowing the photographer to create effects like motion blur. The modes for shutter speeds are 'Bulb' and 'Time' - these are designed to take images for long exposures like long-distance images e.g. the moon. Bulb can determine how long the shutter is open for as it can be pressed manually and can be longer than the slowest shutter speed in the range. With Time, the shutter speed is pressed to start the camera's exposure to light and then another one ends it. I used the shutter speed priority mode 'TV' on the dial within the exercise.
I also used the shutter speed dial to set the shutter speed that I wanted for different images. The camera that I used ranged from 1/4000sec to 30secs. Turning the shutter speed dial altered the aperture setting so that an effective affect could be produced. The LCD panel tells the photographer which shutter speed the camera has been altered to when turning the dial. Generally, in daylight conditions shutter speed aims to be 1/125sec or 1/250 sec. In most cases, 1/400sec will usually be satisfactory. Also, short shutter speeds let less light in and are used to free-frame and catch quick shots. Opposing this, long shutter speeds lets in more light and can allow pictures to be taken in the dark. Long shutter speeds can also create motion blur. Shutter speeds are important for moving subjects because if a slow one is used then the image may become out-of-focus.
1/60sec is a vital shutter speed 'magic number' as this setting is the slowest a photographer can get the shutter speed without motion blur when performing hand-held shots. The photographer would need a tripod if they want to go under 1/60 sec.
Images that contain water needs very high shutter speeds and images containing fireworks or sparklers will need slow shutter speeds. Some cameras allow shutter speeds to be really high, reaching 1/8000sec. A high/fast shutter speed, like 1/4000sec, can capture water because it captures a specific moment in time when the water is moving as it freezes the motion. A  short/low shutter speed is used because it can create a motion-blurred background yet capture a specific, in-focus subject which makes the image have an affect of speed and draws the attention in on the subject.

When I was carrying out the skill development exercise, I used shutter speeds of 1/250sec to 1/125sec to capture my subject walking. Also, I used 1/250sec to 1/500sec to capture her running. I also used a short shutter speed to capture free-frame shots when the subject was jumping in the air. In addition to this, I used extremely long shutter speeds when in the dark, using a torch to capture the light movement. I made sure that the shutter speed was correct throughout this exercise and this meant that I didn't get any underexposed images that didn't contain the right lighting for the shutter speed's exposure. This meant that I didn't have to increase the ISO speed of the camera or that I had to retake images etc - This is a skill that I mastered.


Freeze-frame shot - 1/225
The first several free-frames that I shot contained the same problem - poor framing. Due to her leg being cut off, I learnt that I was too close to the subject. Also, I think this shot should have been portrait instead of landscape. However, this image is in-focus and is successfully freeze-framed despite the poor framing. To overcome the problems I need to gain a larger distance between myself and the subject or use a tripod to directly aim the camera. My targets for next time is to get closer to the subject, use continuous shot mode/take lots of shots and to review images whilst taking them. To improve of these images further, I could have chosen a more suitable background as this isn't really attractive, therefore features within the image has to be thought of as well as the action shots.
However, there were some images that I happened to capture correctly. This is the most successful freeze-frame shot that I captured. There is also motion blur featuring on her foot which gives a sense of the subjects speed and movement. To problem with this is that I would have liked the subject a little closer to the camera so I could have either zoomed in or moved closer to the subject when taking the shots - my targets for freeze-frames will be to accurately judging the distance needed between myself and the subject as well as trying to achieve good framing.
Running shot - 1/250sec to 1/500sec


The problems with the running shots are that they all seem to be out of focus as I feel like I haven't accurately used the focus lens to alter the focus within the images here. However, this may be a cause of too much motion blur in which case I need to alter shutter speed settings - making my target: to be careful and take time when selecting the shutter speed setting. The quality of these images aren't high-quality, although they do portray that the subject is moving fast as it reflects the fast-paced subject due to the motion blur. To overcome the focus issues, I should have put my camera into automatic focus mode instead of manually getting the images into focus. My target is to make sure I use this mode when taking images as well as taking my time when shooting the image so that I adjust the focal ring to the right setting.

Walking image - Ranged from 1/250sec to 1/125sec




Running shot - 1/250sec to 1/500sec
The walking image (to the left) is poor quality and I need to meet the targets I have met so that the focus of this image is adjusted so that it is correct. Focal blur in this image ruins it and denies the effect that motion blur gives as it is mixed with focal blur.






The slowest shutter speeds that I carried out were in a dark room, using a torch. The torch was the subject of this experiment and I have successfully achieved several images that are high-quality, like the one on the right. This image was made by the subject shining the torch in a dark room and making various patterns with the light. The light was then captured when the shutter speed was long and gave an excellent effect.
Slow shutter speed was used - around 1/30sec
As this was carried out in a dark room, it was hard to control the focus of the camera, therefore automatic focus mode can be carried out again to improve the quality of the image. However, I have experimented with the sensitivity of the light i.e. the ISO settings, which is demonstrated in this image because the light is effectively being shown on the image as it has captured and contains white and red light.
My overall targets for shutter speed skill development is that I need to take more fast shutter speed work as mainly all of the photographs I took consisted of shorter shutter speeds. Also, when taking the images I need to consider different factors. I need to: judge the distance between myself and the subject more efficiently (either get closer or move away), review my images when I take them to see possible errors I am making straight away and I need to make sure that automatic focus is on when carrying out running and walking shots; however manual focus can also be experimented with. Finally, I could experiment with different weather types, like rain instead of the weather being sunny, as the raindrops may be captured by fast shutter speed shots.

·    

Thursday, 18 October 2012

Photoshop Techniques

Photoshop Techniques

Original Image 1
Original Image 2
These are the original images before I started to alter them within Adobe Photoshop CS4. I used many techniques within photoshop to edit these images which consisted of using: desaturate, vingetting, unsharp mask, auto colour, auto tone, auto contrast, varying the brightness and contrast of the iamge as well as using the burn and dodge tool.



Within these versions, I have edited the colour, tone and contrast of the image by using auto colour, auto tone and auto contrast. These are within the tab, 'Image'. These actions can also be carried out via shortcuts. For tone, it is Shift+Ctrl+L. For contrast, it is Alt+Shift+Ctrl+L and for auto colour it is Shift+Ctrl+B.These effects make the image more vibrant and I feel like the subject stands out more due to contrasting with the background. The images are bolder and in comparison with the originals, they are more attractive which would cause more audience appeal.The auto tone adds as matt finish to the image, making the subject look more fetishistic as her vunerability is increased.The auto colour individually dilutes a colour into the image to enhance the image's colours as a whole to make the subject look more unique. Finally, auto contrast on its own increases the darkness of the darker colours inm the image as well as highlights the lighter ones. This draws attention to the subjects face as this is a lighter colour, giving the affect of a more emphasised presence.



In these two versions, I have removed all of the colour to leave monotone images by desaturating them. This was done by a shortcut Shift+Ctrl+U, it could also be done by accessing: 'Image', 'Adjustments' and then clicking the 'Desaturate' button. The desaturation emphasised the lighting within the iamges - showing darker and lighter places. After I desaturated the image, I then changed the overall brightness of the images as well as adjusting the contrast to make the lighter and darker places more highlighted by accessing 'Brightness/Contrast'. This gives the effect of a contrasting image that highlights the main subject more as she has a lighter face, contrasting with the darker background. On the left image, brightness is changed more that contrast where as on the right image, contrast is shown more than brightness. Within the right image, the burn and dodge tool were also used. The burn tool is used on the top corners of the image to darken them more, which draws the audience's attention to the subject. However, the dodge tool was also used to highlight the face of the subject more - by making it lighter. I changed the brush size by using the square brackets on the keyboard as this is less time-consuming and more efficient. These tools gave the subject more emphasis and contrasting colours.





Finally within these versions, I have altered the images by using the unsharp mask tool as well as vingetting the image.The unsharp mask method is a very subtle way of making the image sharper, especially sharpening the eyes as much as possible. These images has an almost subconsious effect on the audience due to the sharpness of the images. Unsharp mask was used by clicking on the 'Filter' tab, 'Sharpen' and then clicking 'Unsharp Mask'. The pixels also need to be changed to around 2pt/2.2pt so that the method is subtle. Vingetting has also been used on these images by using the elliptical marquee tool, changing the feathering to 60 - 90 pixels and then drawing by dragging the gradient line around the subject. After this, 'Select' and 'Inverse' have to be clicked in order to select the area around the subject to change it. The contrast has been changed within the selected area by accessing 'Image', 'Adjustments' and then 'Brightness/Contrast'. To finish the process of vingetting, Ctrl+D have to be pressed to deselect the areas.Vingetting drags the attention of the audience into the centre of the photograph to emphasise the subject.


Sunday, 7 October 2012

Induction Evaluation

Induction Evaluation
Image: 090 - Bad Photograph








Image: 026 - Bad Photograph










  


                                                                                                               
The raw images that are poor quality show my photography skills development as the better photographs are more advanced. Both bad images are out of focus and image 026 includes slight camera movement as motion blur is present. They don’t show good lighting because image 090 is too dark and shadowed where as image 026 has no indication as to where the source of light is coming from. I needed to work on my T-stance so that camera movement wasn’t present – this skill was mastered in my good photographs. I need to improve on positioning the subject’s eye-line to the top third of the image as it seems to fall below this point in many images.



Image: 019 - Good Photograph
Image: 057 - Good Photograph











Image: 059 - Good Photograph




The good images show my improvement in photography and the skills I have mastered. The lighting in these images is much better compared to the low-quality images as they are all to some extent side lit shots because the source of light is coming from the top, left of the images. I mastered the skill of getting the shot in focus by altering the focus ring/lense whilst in Manual Focus. Also, the zoom ring was altered to zoom in or out on the subject so that the size of the model was changed. I tried to place the model in the right side third more to leave room for text on the magazine front cover however, this needs improving. In addition to this, the head shot image should have been portrait as this would fit better on the magazine front cover however, this was not thought about at the time – this is an improvement I need to work on as well (think about whether the image should be portrait or landscape). 


 Magazine Front Cover Evaluation:

My Induction Magazine Front Cover

Image: 110 - Side-lit Shot

Strengths of product:
Within photography, the main image I incorporated onto the magazine front cover is in focus and doesn’t present camera movement or motion blur. The image 110 that is given is a very good example of when lighting worked in the shot. This is a side-lit shot and creates more form and depth to the image, conveying a darker outlook to the audience. The rule of thirds was used in some images and in some images it didn’t occur. Although, sometimes the eye-line was meant to be below the top third’s line as I was manipulating it to give a sense of insecurity and vulnerability of the subject. The background was thought about in the main image as I either wanted a plain background or one that linked with the style of my magazine. I tested different background in the images and chose a brick wall and a set of stairs that had fairly dark colours surrounding it to be the main backgrounds as these backgrounds were interesting yet not too detailed. The subject was handled well as she listened to my instructions and I achieved the looks, facial expressions and poses that I wanted within the image.
Within Photoshop, I chose the ‘Captain Swabby’ font and downloaded it from ‘www.dafont.com’ for the title of the magazine. I chose this font because it matched the genre of this music magazine (retro) and was interesting, yet easy-to-read. This a  strength because this was then edited in Photoshop and created a striking, edgy masthead that would appeal to the target audience. The front cover of that magazine had other strengths as well as the font for the masthead, which included: featuring eye-line manipulation to portray a stern, rebellious outlook; layered text over the main image to emphasise the text; a cell button that draws attention and promotes the band member in the image; a focused image and a colour scheme that links with each other throughout the front cover. For example, the shade of light blue in the cell button is coherent with the colour in the subjects collar and the background colour links with the subjects sampled eye colour. The limited palette of the three colours, black, white and blue, makes the magazine front cover stand out and grab the audience’s attention by creating audience interest. I also like where the masthead has been positioned as it is the text that the audience will read first as well as having an image of the alluring female that contrasts with the blue, black and white colours scheme due to her hair colour. Both of these features will appeal to the target audience as the image has slight sex appeal as the image shows to the audience that they can dominate her venerable character. Finally the induction magazine front cover includes sell lines that contain exclusivity, assonance, alliteration, a quote headline, exclamatives and rhyme. These sell lines will attract the audience’s attention and make them read on, ensuring that they buy the magazine. The main sell line is ‘SEX LIES & FLINT SKIES’ which is an enlarged font as this relates with the subject in the main image. This could be shown more by having the full band in the image so that it presents ‘Flint Skies’ properly although, the sell line still links with the image as I have over lapped the sell line with the image via layers to create recognition. This sell line is a strength because it features rhyme which allows the phrase to be catchy, therefore the audience will remember the sell line more. 

Weaknesses of product:
I did take images landscape when they should have been portrait when photographing my model. This caused problems because the images didn’t fit on the magazine front cover well and didn’t match my flat plan. As a result of this, I had to re-take the photographs and produce portrait images instead of landscape. At first, my photographs were also out-of-focus as auto-focus wasn’t used and manual focus was. I improved my skills of focusing images when I re-took images due to the mode settings and I acquired the skill. The lighting of the shots was difficult to control due to the weather conditions outside; however, if the images were taken in a studio then I could control this matter. This meant that some images that were taken contained poor lighting and reduced the affect the image had in creating a sense of mystery, happiness etc. I tried to incorporate the rule of thirds in my photography and achieved it in some images; however I found it difficult to attain this in many images and need to improve on this skill. I found that the eye-line on many of the photographs were too low as it was below the top third’s line. Furthermore, the background of the main image on the induction magazine front cover wasn’t the same as my flat plan image’s background as the camera shots that were taken were head and shoulder shots (this wasn’t the same as my flat plan). Due to this matter, I didn’t achieve the background I would have liked to link with other features of the magazine. When instructing the model, it was difficult to get her to carry out a ‘super-smiley’ pose as her teeth was showing and she is conscious of this.
Weaknesses also occurred in Photoshop. Firstly, the text wasn’t too controlled as I tried to limit the fonts to 3 fonts although, to improve I think I should have used 2 because it is hard to read and understand when using 3 fonts. The fonts also need to be limited to two or three sizes because this will make the front cover easier to read and the audience won’t give up on reading it because it is hard to understand. Another weakness of the front cover when edited in Photoshop is that I placed the institutional brand element of price in the wrong place (the bottom, left hand side) which is not a place the audience will read last as the UK audience read from left to right, top to bottom. I have also left some institutional information out and not included the issues number or the date. Finally, another weakness is that the background colour looked too much like a block colour, to improve on this it needs to be faded into the image more so that the front cove flows and looks more professional.

Skills I have gained:
Within my photography skills, I have gained the skill of altering the focus ring to produce an image that isn’t out-of-focus and I have learned by altering the zoom ring on the camera it can change the distance of how close/far away the subject is. I used manual focus as I needed to develop my skills in focusing images via the focus lens. I have learnt that in order to produce a good still image, the T-stance position has to be performed. This is the way a photographer has to stand to be able to bend, yet still maintain a solid body. I mastered this skill when I took photos that didn’t contain camera movement or motion blur. I learnt that a magazine image should mainly be portrait on the front cover as this allows room for text on the right hand side. I also learnt that wide shots are most suitable when the camera is in landscape mode as this ensures sharpness in the image; whereas the portrait mode ensures that the subject is manly the only subject in focus. Primarily, I used automatic mode as the camera judges which setting to use. I gained skills about lighting as I learnt that there are three types of lighting shots; back-lit, side-lit and front-lit. I also learnt that if it is a front-lit shot then the subject doesn’t cast a shadow on themselves and side-lit shots make the subject more mysterious and dark.
I have gained many skills in Photoshop as well as photography. Firstly, I learnt how to master the skill of downloading fonts by: choosing a font on a website that I thought would suit my target audience (14-20 year olds, 90% male and 10% female, social groups C1, C2 and D); creating a folder in My Documents called ‘Fonts’; click the download button on the website; save the font into my Fonts folder; right clicking on the folder and then clicking ‘extract all’; copying it into the local drive folder ‘Fonts’ and then deleting the zip folder in My Documents. This meant that the font would appear when I wanted to change the font face in the drop-down menu. Another skill I learnt was to add effects. I added effects onto the mast head to create the blue glow where the normal white outline should have been as this made the masthead more interesting and linked with the colour scheme more effectively. Did this by accessing layer styles and adding an outer glow within the space of the white outline and chosen a sampled colour from the sympathetic colour palette – different options like ‘Bevel and Emboss’ was also altered for the mast head and the cell button. I added affects on the cell button to make it look slightly more realistic and 3D. These skills I learnt helped me to accomplish a more professional look to the magazine front cover; however, more skills need to be gained to improve the front cover. In addition to these newly gained skills, I made a sympathetic colour palette by sampling colours (primarily sampling different shades of blue from the main image to be used in the cell button, background and texts). Colours were sampled by clicking the colour that I wanted on the main image instead of the custom colours within Photoshop. The colour scheme was black, white and blue. I used these three colours because I felt that they were quite edgy, simple and that they were masculine colours that could be used to suit the target audience. Sampling colours is another skill I gained when creating the magazine front cover within Photoshop as well as controlling colour choices by changing RGB codes. I used a lot of tools and learnt a high number of shortcuts that can be used on Photoshop. I learnt now to create a cell button by using the elliptical marquee tool in a new layer, selecting the size I wanted, choosing the colour I wanted it to be by sampling it and editing it with ‘bevel and emboss’ in the layer styles option. I also used the cropping tool on the tool bar when cropping the main image. The shortcuts are listed below:
·         Control + G – to duplicated a layer
·         Control + R – to get the rulers up at the top and side of the screen
·         Resize image – Control + T, hold shift key down whilst dragging (to maintain aspect ratio) and then press enter
·         Control D – to deselect
·         Shift, Control + D - to reselect
I also learnt two ways of how to open an image in Photoshop. Firstly, Control + A to select the image, copy (Control + C), go back to Photoshop and paste it in (Control + V) so that the image is on the cover. The other way to open an image is to cascade the image in. This means that I had to open he image in Photoshop and drag to the other Photoshop page so that the image is placed onto the cover. I thought the shortcuts were easy to use, although it was difficult to remember all of them. I also found the layers hard to use as I kept clicking on the wrong layers for the different pieces of text.  Moreover, I found that sampling colours was one of the easiest skills to gain and use as it was simple as well as finding that inserting images into Photoshop was easy when you know the methods behind it. To improve on the magazine front cover I need to gain the skill of cutting out the subject from the image and discarding the background as this may be seen as a weakness to the front cover.